Cooktop Not Working? Here’s What to Check
One burner zone dead? Touch controls not responding? Whole cooktop gone dark? A cooktop that stops working mid-dinner is one of the more stressful appliance failures — you can’t just put the kettle on and wait it out. Before you call a technician, there are a few things worth checking yourself. If none of them solve it, book a repair with Always Prompt Repairs or call (07) 3062 2377 — we’ll diagnose the fault and get your cooktop heating again.
Simple Checks You Can Do First
These won’t fix every problem, but they rule out the easy stuff — and they might save you a callout fee. Work through these before assuming you need a technician.
Step 1: Check the Circuit Breaker
Electric cooktops run on a dedicated circuit. If your cooktop has gone completely dead — no display, no indicator lights, nothing — head to your switchboard and check whether the cooktop’s circuit breaker has tripped. If it has, reset it. If it trips again immediately or shortly after, stop — that indicates a fault in the cooktop or its wiring, and you’ll need a professional to look at it.
Step 2: Check If One Zone or All Zones Are Affected
This narrows down the problem significantly. If only one zone won’t heat, the issue is almost certainly localised — a failed element, a loose zone connection, or a problem with that specific zone’s control relay. If all zones are dead, you’re looking at a power supply issue, a failed main control board, or a wiring fault. If some zones work but one doesn’t, try moving your pot to a working zone while you arrange a repair.
Step 3: Check the Child Lock
This catches more people than you’d think. Most modern electric cooktops — induction and ceramic — have a child lock function that disables the touch controls. It’s usually activated by holding a specific button (often a key icon) for a few seconds. Check your cooktop’s manual for the unlock procedure. If you see a lock icon on the display, that’s your problem. Deactivate the child lock and your cooktop should respond normally.
Step 4: Check for Residual Heat Indicator
On ceramic cooktops, if the zone indicator shows an “H” or a flashing light but the zone won’t activate, the cooktop may think the zone is still too hot to operate. Wait for it to cool completely and try again. If the indicator never clears, the temperature sensor for that zone may be faulty.
When You Need a Professional
If none of the steps above resolve the issue, you’re dealing with a fault that needs a qualified appliance technician. Here are the most common cooktop problems we see across Brisbane.
Heating Element Failure
On ceramic cooktops, the radiant heating element beneath the glass can burn out. You’ll notice one zone simply won’t get hot — no glow underneath the glass, no heat output. The element itself needs replacing, and the glass top has to be lifted carefully to access it. This is one of the more common repairs we do on ceramic cooktops.
Induction Zone Connection Fault
Induction cooktops use electromagnetic coils rather than radiant elements. If a single zone drops out, the coil connection or the zone’s dedicated IGBT (power transistor) module may have failed. These are precision components — an incorrect diagnosis can lead to replacing expensive parts unnecessarily, so accurate fault-finding matters.
Touch Control Board Failure
If your cooktop’s touch controls are unresponsive, intermittent, or registering phantom touches, the touch control module has likely failed. Moisture ingress, heat damage, and general wear are the usual causes. The control board is a separate module from the power board and is typically mounted directly behind the glass surface.
Power Board Failure
The power board distributes electricity to all the cooking zones. When it fails, you might see some zones working and others dead, or the entire cooktop may go dark. Power board failures are often caused by voltage spikes or component fatigue — particularly capacitors and relays. A failed power board usually means no zones heat, even though the display and controls may still appear to work.
Wiring and Terminal Block Issues
The terminal block where the cooktop connects to your home’s wiring can develop loose connections or burn marks over time, especially on older installations or where the original installation wasn’t done properly. Symptoms include intermittent power loss, tripping breakers, or a burning smell near the connection point. This is a safety issue that should be addressed promptly.
Electric Cooktops Only — We Don’t Repair Gas
We repair electric ceramic and induction cooktops only. We do not service gas cooktops or gas hobs — if you have a gas appliance issue, you’ll need a licensed gas fitter. All the information on this page relates to electric cooktops.
What Does a Cooktop Repair Cost?
Our standard callout is $219, which includes the first 30 minutes of on-site labour — covering diagnosis and, in many cases, the repair. Additional time is charged at $45 per 15-minute block. Parts are quoted separately. We offer a $20 discount for seniors, pensioners, and students. All pricing is an estimate — your technician will confirm costs before proceeding.
Return visits are $29 plus parts and labour. We’ll provide a fixed price quote before any work is carried out. All repairs include a 12-month warranty on parts and labour.
Book Your Cooktop Repair
We service Greater Brisbane, Ipswich, and the Northern Gold Coast with 1-hour arrival windows. Book your cooktop repair online or call (07) 3062 2377 (Mon–Fri, 7 am – 4:30 pm). For more on the cooktop repairs we handle, see our cooktop repairs Brisbane page.